Time to leave Telavi and head down the wine
route on another gorgeous day-divine the weather. We all shared breakfast together and Bakti made a beautiful spread of
food. She made homemade porridge with apricot and blackberries. She usually
meditates on Saturday and does not speak or use her phone. Clearly, she made an
exception for this day.
The Chinese girls were making some soup with meat and
the leftover horse-it is very interesting to see them eat as they love to eat meat...as Zoe said, "All kinds of meat." That gives me the chills a bit. Let’s just say they eat very differently than us. Zoe was
kind enough to braid my hair and we took some fun photos together.Bakti went on
her morning walk. She said she’s not religious, but she likes to sit in the
churches and finds peace there. She is such a simple yet beautiful, creative
human being. It’s so refreshing to meet people like her and then way she
reminded me of myself especially with the way we like to cook and serve others
and we like to wake up in the morning and write. She is my sister in another lifetime I think.
After my educational lesson about Georgian men from her and Ms. Korea, I know to avoid them like the plague. She said to avoid them at all costs because they will just take your money or break your heart or both.
The day was perfectly clear, and you could see
the most beautiful view of the mountains. I wanted to stop by the bazaar before
heading on the Maruska(van) down the wine route.
The bazaar was so much fun, talking with the man
who sells the various types of cheese. I sampled the teas and the different nuts/ fruits and some women were not as friendly. The cheese can be very salty and they were not my favorite, but I had to buy some from a local guy outside for $.50 he gave me a
big chunk of cheese and cut it into pieces.
The butchers were cutting the meat that was all types of various
produce being sold on the streets. The locals were entertained by my prescence.
The way I probably say I am Indian and walk around with curiosity and kindness
in my eyes.
I stopped in the grocery store for some local
food to eat before my bus ride and I was instantly approached by a 12-year-old boy, who wanted to
practice English. He told me about his family, where he lives, their names, and
he told me my English is good, but he needs practice lol. He was charming, funny, and adorable.
He was trying so hard to form basic questions and
was asking all about my life. His name was Otto and he was hanging out in the grocery store with his sister waiting for his mother to get out of work.
A Taxi is trying to get my business, but I am
talking with the van drivers trying to get to the winery. They are all talking
about me in Georgian. It’s always so interesting when a tourist gets on the van
and they are trying to figure out where I wanna go. They drop me off at the
Shumi winery which was stunning- one of the biggest and best wineries in Georgia with over 2,000 varietals of wine! You can just grab a few tastes and walk around in the garden, near the fountain, or in the Rose garden. There are not many tour groups there or guests so it is super peaceful and the fountain with the Fall pumpkin display is lovely-ahhhh winery heaven!
I met a nice girl name, Sasha who moved to
Georgia from Russia. She said she likes Georgia because she can be free in her
mind and her actions. She said Russia is very strict and controlling. She
doesn’t miss living there and loves her life and friends in Georgia. She was at
such peace just sitting on a swing in front of the vineyards.
She said there’s
so much beauty, but she doesn’t want to take photos. She wants to just enjoy it....if the world can have more young people like this...oh the Russians.
I ended up stopping at a couple more wineries and then catching another bus to Signaghi. The wineries were never ending and I just tried to visit ones that interested me and were on my bus route lol.
The driver was a bit crazy again
passing cars and quickly picking up passengers. It was very scenic driving this
way as all the Fall leaves were changing. It really is the perfect season for
Georgia. I can see why many people visit in the Fall.
He drops me off and
shouted 10 Lari and he pointed out his watch indicating I should hurry up. I was shuffling through my change purse for 10 as I ran out of change. I just gave him 20 and let him leave because he was shouting like a maniac that he needed to keep moving.
He drops me off and I am doublechecking making sure I have all my stuff because I had to get off so quickly. I took a walk down the main road and realized that I had a 30 minute walk ahead of me. A local doctor sees me walking and offers me a ride- this is not weird people-this is called being a kind local when a guest is visiting your country. He drops me directly off in front of my accomodation, which was on the way to his weekend home. I am so grateful after the long day of bus rides and just want to take a nice shower and walk.
I had read many reviews about this accomodation saying the family is very lively and welcoming. I take time choosing the right places and it ends up being worth it most of the time....The family was lovely, but the room was a library/book study turned into a room-very small, but it was clean.
Within minutes this Indian family arrived and they were staying above me in the triple bedroom. It was a husband and wife, their two kids and mother and father and they were from Bangalore. They were
super nice and immediately I really liked them. There was a young baby and George worried it would be too noisy for me, but I figured it would be nice staying
with Indians. I walked around the city tasted a few different wines-it is hard to just get tastes, but if I did not I woud just request half a glass because red wine was very acidic and too strong for me to drink too much.
This season is coming to an end so there were less people and the tour buses usually leave by sunset, which I knew this and for this reason-I chose to stay overnight with some peace and quiet. The further away from the tourists and the more interactions with locals-the better.
The views and the
sunset were spectacular. It is truly a beautiful, romantic hilltop city. Couples pass by holding hands and taking romantic photos, sharing food, and gazing into each other's eyes. It was a romantic destination for sure and I had no romance happening at all.
It seems like so many of the businesses are all run by families they
have their children there tending to the business and younger kids are there playing. I met a nice
Ukrainian man well dressed in a nice suit and he gave me his business card and was trying to
communicate with me in Russian. He looks like some kind of politician or
somebody important, but he stopped and asked to take a photo with me and kissed
my head which i just love this form of endearment.
The sun was setting, and there was a great DJ
playing music at the restaurant. He was up on the top level and he had the moon
right behind him- great Dj with European vibes- nothing better than this and a nice decaf cappacino.
I
went back to the guest house, and the Indians were downstairs in the cellar
doing a wine tasting so i joined them. There was Sapervi red wine, dry white
wine- both homemade and peach ja ja , tarragon, and apricot brandy. George was doing a whole demo with Ja ja and lighting it on fire and giving us history of his winery and the different instruments downstairs in this underground cellar.
This tarragon Ja ja was absolutely amazing. He told me that he would be insulted if I left his home and did not at least taste it and Boy I am glad I did. The tarragon and the mint were both excellent.
He explained that Georgians drink large
quantities until they feel good and go to sleep. George showed me the local horn
that holds a bottle of wine and there is a Tumador(previously mentioned) who drinks out of this first
and then the rest of the people follow with his tradition of each Georgian
drinking a bottle of wine. George, said in his heavy accent that he could drink a bottle of wine in under 3 minutes and this does not surprise me at all....maybe even 2 minutes for some Georgians. He is very busy
always having tours, managing a guesthouse, and inviting tourists to his wine
cellar and making wine. He has a very cute personality and innocence...he helped me in my room get the mosquitoes out and was climbing up to the ceiling to smash the bug so I could be comfortable...
I would wake up to the kids outside playing on their bikes and the sunrise was spectacular like an Ooty it reminded me of in India....a hill station.
It was special just visiting the city on my own and having this time to know George and his local city and traditions.
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